10 Questions You’ve Always Wanted to Ask
By Tom Fegely

It seems easy enough.

You decide to establish a small food plot near each of the tree stands on your 40-acre wooded property. After all, you planted a healthy lawn a couple years back and your garden grows green with several vegetables. You even helped a neighbor put in a small plot of corn on the edge of his woods.

How hard can it be to get a food plot of alfalfa or clover going?

Truth is, says Matt Harper, deer nutrition specialist for the Whitetail Institute of North America, it really isn’t all that complex as long as you attend to some of the basics of food plot establishment from the very start.

Having created food plots on my 35-acre Pennsylvania property for the past half-dozen years and working with others on theirs, I’ve heard some repeated questions about everything from soil acidity to choosing “the right stuff” for a successful planting.

I posed 10 of the questions to Harper, an authority on the subject.

1. Everyone seems to know that lime is necessary for most food plots, but why and just how much is enough?
   Says Harper: “Before you do anything, have a soil test done. That is, determine whether the plot is alkaline or acidic and by how much. A soil test by a private lab or an agricultural extension service will get you the information you’ll need. The report will aid in understanding the pH process and tell you how much lime (most soils are acidic) should be applied per acre.” (And if you have any questions call a Whitetail Institute consultant at 800-688-3030)
   Choose either powdered lime or pelletized lime – the latter surprisingly breaks down faster.
   “But consider that a pound of lime is a pound of lime no matter what form it’s in,” says Harper.
     

2. How important is fertilizer and, again, what type and how much is enough?
   “This again begins with getting a soil analysis,” Harper advises. “If you know what you’ll be planting – clover, alfalfa, soybeans or whatever else – the report will tell you how much and what mix of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium is necessary for your specific soil.”
   For example, if the print on a fertilizer bag reads 6-24-24 or 17-17-17 it means the mix is composed of those parts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium needed for your soil’s composition, respectively. The chemicals the soil needs for your crop will be included on such test.
   Accurate readings for both pH and fertilizer application can be attained by using an inexpensive (less than $10) soil test kit from the Whitetail Institute. A soil sample is mailed and within two business days is on the way back with all you should know about your fertilizer and liming needs.
    

3. If you want to grow small food plots near your tree stands and they’re shaded a portion of each day, what should be planted?
   Harper advises: “First, choose the site carefully. It must have 3-4 hours of direct sunlight. Although you can plant whatever you want under these conditions, keep the plantings beyond the drip edge (the edges of a tree’s vegetation as you gaze upwards) where it will get more sunshine and direct rainfall and dew.
   “As for what will grow best under those conditions, I suggest our Secret Spot or No-Plow seeds which have been developed for those conditions,” Harper says. “They grow in a variety of soil conditions and are very hardy blends.”
     

4. I want to plant a perennial (which grows for several years) so I’m not faced with planting annuals (which grow only one year then need replanting). But my soil is very poor for clover or alfalfa. What would be best?
   “You can’t go wrong with our Imperial Whitetail Extreme,” Harper quickly responds. “It’s made for less-than-ideal conditions including dry soil, drought-prone regions, low pH or severe cold or heat. Extreme can grow in many places that will not support clover or alfalfa.”
   Extreme contains herbaceous forbs, chicory and other seeds, which have been known to reproduce for as many as five years. However, Extreme is not tolerant of constantly moist conditions, so avoid planting Extreme in lowlands, which probably won’t drain as well as drier areas.
    

5. Why can’t I plant the cheaper clover sold for cattle instead of higher-priced products? What’s the difference?
   “First,” says Harper, “farm store clover is not the same thing, but you can plant it and it will probably attract some deer.
   “That clover is genetically designed for cattle. Ours is made specifically for deer; that’s a major difference. No other clover is genetically designed specifically for whitetails.
   “Imperial Whitetail Clover has the highest possible protein level, lasts up to five years (occasionally more than five years) and is more attractive to deer. Imperial Whitetail Clover also grows larger than most clovers and is more resistant of weather extremes and disease.
   “Unlike cattle, deer are picky,” Harper concludes. “Palatability and succulence is important to deer and Whitetail Clover has that.”
    

6. How do I know I’m getting proper coverage when I seed the plot with a hand-operated spreader, especially for small seeds such as clover?
   Harper recommends a quality bag spreader with settings for all types of seeds, then adjusting the “gap” on the bottom of the spreader to about 1/8 inch for tiny seeds, which seem to “disappear” on the plot bed.
   The best bet for adequate coverage and not overseeding is to walk at a specific pace from one end to the other, then repeat the process by walking crosswise.
   Judging just how much seed is enough (measured in pounds per acre) can be factored from information on the seed bag.
    

7. I have no clearings in my woods but I do have some old skid trails and a couple dirt-lane roadsides. Each is somewhat shaded but gets regular sun and heavy weed growth. How do I handle preparation of the plot under those conditions, and what can I plant?
   “Seed-soil contact is the biggest consideration under these circumstances,” Harper emphasizes. “Use Round-Up (a herbicide) first, then sew the seeds about 10 days later.”
    
   Prior to planting, the ground should be roughened with a rake or, if feasible, a garden-type rototiller or an ATV disk. Once the seed is spread, it should be raked lightly to maximize soil contact. In sectors where natural debris and vegetation cover the ground, more seeds should be planted as only a percentage of them will germinate and grow under these conditions. As with any planting, lime and fertilizer are recommended for best growth.
   Similar to small woodland clearings, No-Plow and Secret Spot are the best choices for these conditions. Both products require minimal soil preparation and thrive in less-than-ideal conditions.
    

8. Can too much rain be as serious a deterrent to a plot’s growth as not enough rain?
   “Definitely, especially if the plot was not chosen with drainage in mind,” says Harper.
   However, he adds that heavy rains should not be considered much of a deterrent if the plot retains standing water for only a day or two. But if a pool’s low spots remain for five to seven days, it will probably “drown” and kill the growth. That’s why it’s best to scout out possible plot sites after heavy downpours and before planting time.
    

9. I’ve read about planting by simply spreading seeds in late winter as the soil is thawing and refreezing? Does this really work?
   According to Harper, the process is known as “frost-seeding,” and it can work but it’s not as efficient as doing it later in the season by conventional methods. But it is easier.
   
   It should be timed for the period when the last frost typically takes place. The shifting of soil particles and the available moisture as warmer weather sets in will provide soil contact for the seeds, whether it’s clover or larger seeds.
   Avoid frost-seeding on slopes, however, as snow run-off or spring rains can wash the seeds away.
    

10. What’s your recommendation for planting in fields where you hope to attract both deer and turkeys?
    “It would have to be Imperial Clover or Alfa-Rack Plus,” Harper notes.
    Alfa-Rack Plus includes deep-rooted, tender alfalfa and Imperial Clover, making for a deadly combination. It grows on hillsides and taps moisture thanks to the clinging power of the deep roots. The clover, which is more shallow-rooted, fills in the gaps in moist spots.
     
    Imperial Whitetail Clover performs best in flat areas that hold moisture or lowlands.
     
    Turkeys will eat clover and alfalfa but are also attracted to fields for the insects they hold. Deer, of course, eat both of these perennials, which also provide high protein.
     

As a bonus, blends have been developed for specific regions from Canada to the Gulf Coast and beyond.
“We’ve already discussed Extreme, and it is also very attractive to turkeys,” Harper says, “so it is an option in areas that don’t support clover or alfalfa.”
Even if you have a green thumb for backyard gardens or experience in preparing your lawn and planting grass, putting in a productive food plot is a more complex process. The trick is getting it right the first time by following recommendations on the bag and looking through these pages to decide what will best suit your needs.